Looking for a R100S - I think... Please Advise

[Deleted User 287]

I forget if it has been discussed in this thread.

What is your experience as a mechanic?
Have the guys discussed how to take a compression test reading on these bikes?

I'm not sure, but I think I would pull the carbs off the heads (so you don't have to worry about holding the slides open), and have a good, charged 12v battery.
You could probably even jump it off of your car, if you have motorcycle-sized jumper cables.

[Souljer]

Hi,

I'd love to hear the steps how you would do it.
More knowledge certainly wouldn't hurt.

By the way, it won't matter if the bike is hot will it? He might be meeting me half way so he'll have just driven about 175 miles.

Thank you for posting.

[Deleted User 287]

I'd love to hear the steps how you would do it.

Have you figured out who Duane is here, yet?

http://w6rec.com/duane/bmw/compression/

Whatever you need, Google "BMW motorcycles _______________" with the blank filled in with your question.
Most likely Duane's website will be at or near the top.

He does not really address bikes as new as the one you are considering, but compression tests have not changed much.

[Souljer]

Thanks.
I'll go over that.

[Ken in Oklahoma]

. . . The second (with full fairing and double Russell seat) is a great bike if you want a full fairing like that. If not, you're paying for stuff you don't need, but could sell off. Price would be important. . .

For what it's worth souljer, that Luftmeister fairing has no salvage value. Virtually nobody wants them and they cost a lot of money to ship in case somebody does.

Moreover, pulling the fairing off will require you to do some work. The turn signal stalks on the forks were been bent upward by a rubber mallet so they would clear the fairing. The stalks will need to be bent back down. (That may not go well. I've never done it.) Also the turn signal housings and lenses will have to be pulled from the fairing and installed onto the stalks. Associated wiring will need to be done. Similarly the headlight and ring assembly will need to be pulled from the fairing and mounted to the headlight shell. This too will require some rewiring. And finally there is a cable exiting the headlight shell which connects to a connector on the fairing. You will want to remove it and plug the hole in the headlight shell.

I happen to be one of those rare few people who like the Luftmeister fairing. I have one on my '77 R100/7 and another on my '76 R75/6. In a sense the Luftmeister fairing turned a nekkid airhead into an RT---before BMW made RTs.

Ken

[Kurt in S.A.]

Be sure and properly ground the plugs when doing a compression check.

Kurt in S.A.

[Jean]

I like the R100/7 for what you have in mind.
Nekkid-bike...
It looks like this one's not been messed with, either.

[Ken in Oklahoma]

I too like the looks of those R100/7s. The low miles are attractive. I like the unmolested look of the first one, though all it would take is some pin stripes to make the second one look "right".

The third bike, that R100T is, of course, out of the question. that 1/2" frame rake, no matter how it is measured, is a show stopper. That bike didn't need a 1/2" rake and won't do anything better because it has it. At least in my not so humble opinion.

The only thing "wrong" with the R100/7s is the single disk front brake. And to collect the parts to add a second disk is an expensive proposition. Well, the R/H fork slider (from a twin disk bike) is the expensive part. Most Beemer breakers know all about the value of that part.

On the other hand, a lot of good can be done with just a single disk. Two things need to be done. The under the tank master cylinder must go and a handlebar master cylinder with a small bore must be procured. I've lost the details somewhere in my mind, but the problem is that a new throttle assembly is required with the handlebar mounted master cylinder.

The reason I think I know something about this is that I added that second disk to my R100/7. The brakes are not great, but in the limit I can lock up the front wheel on dry pavement.

I haven't modified my R75/6 yet, but I have collected the parts to change it to dual disks.



Ken

[Steve in Golden]

The third bike, that R100T is, of course, out of the question. that 1/2" frame rake, no matter how it is measured, is a show stopper. That bike didn't need a 1/2" rake and won't do anything better because it has it. At least in my not so humble opinion.

Indeed, I'd avoid that one like the plague. The 133K miles and salvage title are also show-stoppers IMO. I wouldn't touch it with a 10 foot pole. Unless the price were really cheap and even then, I'd hesitate.

[Jean]

Oh Ken, I have been doing just fine with the under-tank MC since '81 (or is it '82???)
You just have to remember it's there! and do what's needed to keep things working.

(Wanna talk about the hydraulic disk on the rear or did we talk about THAT too much already?)