Looking for a R100S - I think... Please Advise

[Jean]

"Seller now tells me speedometer cable is suddenly jumping around this week on the R100R. He looked on line and a new one is about $100."

The CABLE is jumping about??? Does he mean the needle?
I thought the R100R had an electronic speedo...Someone help-out here.

[chasbmw]

Tachos are electronic, speedos are cable driven.

[Major Softie]

Still, he's making an assumption that it's the cable. That would be nice, but it may be the speedometer itself.

[Souljer]

Hi,

The R100R guy has not responded to me for about two days so I don't know if that's going to happen.

I've found a few others if you'd like to continue looking with me.

1• 1977 R100/7 49K miles.
Registered through Nov. 13. Comes with unmounted faring and bags.



2• 1978 R100/7 40K miles.
New tires, rear springs, fork seals. Comes with bags and original tool kit.



3• 1979 R100T 133K miles.
Salvage due to parking lot crash.
Previous owner used that to rebuild bike. Frame sent to frame guy, 1/2˚ rake added to forks, engine and trans rebuilt, Every seal replaced at 119K. All paperwork included. All original parts (seat, handle bar, etc.) included.

I've never heard of a R100T so I was wondering if anyone knows anything about that.

I'm not saying I am that interested in any of these although they are in the ballpark and all are in my price range.
As a matter of fact they are all the same price.
I think the R100R is still the best I've seen as far as what I want and the right price. However since he's not emailed me back, I am not going to put all my hopes on that bike. Maybe the speedo or bike blew up, who knows?

So just hoping to get some opinions and ideas on the above three to learn a bit so I can start making better judgments on my own.

[Deleted User 287]

I like the first one best - the R100/7.

The second one is not "me" (FWTIW),
and the third one - steering modifications? To what end? I can see steepening it for a sidecar, but I don't think I would extend it unless, as Duane would say "you are trying to cover up a deeper lying problem".

And 'T's are no big deal. Just a R100 with an extra letter.

[Souljer]

Hi,

No sooner had I posted my last post when the '93 R100R guy called (pix two pages back I believe).
He seemed like a nice guy with a pleasant, happy way about him. He did not mention getting into the speedo issue. I don't think he's a home mechanic type, or at least is not really interested in that aspect.

It might happen Sunday. He might even be able to meet me half way. That seems like a good sign. I don't know yet if it will happen this weekend as we are waiting for confirmation of schedules on his end, but we could be entering the final turn.

Any other words of advise? Do I really need to meet the guy and do a compression test when he just drove it 175 miles? It seems that the bike is in working order.
Now would be a great time to crank that ideas, advise and experiences throttle.

Thanks to all.

[Major Softie]

Do I really need to meet the guy and do a compression test when he just drove it 175 miles? It seems that the bike is in working order.

Yes, you do.

It's a very high mileage bike. The compression could be low enough to tell you that there is major top-end work coming in the near future, and the bike might still run fine, just with a bit less power than it would have if everything was tighter. This would be the case if the compression was down, but still even between cylinders.

If the compression is low but even, that doesn't mean the bike is no good, but it's important knowledge to have and a strong negotiating point for you.

On those other 3:
I don't like the first.

The second (with full fairing and double Russell seat) is a great bike if you want a full fairing like that. If not, you're paying for stuff you don't need, but could sell off. Price would be important.

The third (the "T") looks and sounds really nice, except for that added rake business. Haven't heard anything about people doing that. Maybe someone else has?

[Souljer]

Hi,

Okay thanks for your reply.

So it goes like this:
I meet this guy in a parking lot 175 miles from each of our homes, "Hi. Nice to meet you."
and I whip out my compression gauge and hoses...

Then IF the gauge reads 120 lbs or less I start renegotiating the price?

I think I might have to explain that I plan on doing that over the phone first with the understanding that if it fails the test there needs to be a price adjustment, or something like that.

And to what degree of renegotiating are we talking about? Less $200, $500, $1000??

I actually heard that a pressure test is better in that you can figure out more depending where you do or don't hear a leak, but I don't think I'll have an air compressor with me.

Any advise or anecdotes on how some of you handled this would be very welcome.
___________________________
Regarding those three, that's pretty much how I felt about them.
1. Not wild about it. Price was ok, not great.
2. Fairing etc. is a lot of stuff I don't really want right now. Could remove and sell or keep for later.
3. Very pretty and more what I'm looking for or to create myself. Salvage title and 1/2˚ rake in fork? Not sure about that. Has mileage as high as the R100R but a lot of recent work documented - if he has the receipts as claimed. So yes and I don't know.

[Major Softie]

Hi,

Okay thanks for your reply.

So it goes like this:
I meet this guy in a parking lot 175 miles from each of our homes, "Hi. Nice to meet you."
and I whip out my compression gauge and hoses...

Then IF the gauge reads 120 lbs or less I start renegotiating the price?

Not exactly. I was saying earlier that 120 might be okay for that bike (with 8.1 CR and that valve timing). If I saw 115, I'd probably think it had plenty of life on that top end, but if I saw 105 I'd be thinking it was about rebuild time. If you can find an Airhead mechanic that can tell you what one in new condition should be, that would be really helpful.

I actually heard that a pressure test is better in that you can figure out more depending where you do or don't hear a leak, but I don't think I'll have an air compressor with me.

A compression test is probably fine for this. A compression test tells to the condition of the cylinder: good or bad. If there's a problem, a "pressure test" (most of us refer to that as a "leakdown test") diagnoses where the problem is. So, it is far superior, but for basic assessment of condition, the combustion test will be fine.

[Souljer]

Hi,

Okay, cool. Got it: Don't go nuclear if compression reads 119.5 lbs.
104.5 lbs -oh boy! HULK SMASH!


Just kidding,
So if I understand you correctly you are saying is that unless there is some sort of radical catastrophic failure or discrepancy I should get the bike. However if I discover possible issues on that day I might try for possible renegotiating. If everything I can do at there seems fine, it's probably okay, and I can pay what we agreed.
Is that about correct?

Thanks for your reply. I really appreciate everyone's help and advise.