Boxerworks.com

Yep, I've emailed and asked if they could supply one of each, I'll let you know if they will. If they're not keen I'll explain how it's a great combo for bikes .

I've liked the idea of a couple of these critters. 'Rigid Industries' duallyD2 2600 lumens.
I think they're three or four hunnert a pair tho.....

Maybe these cheaper jobs already shown are quite good too..

http://www.snakeracing.com.au/dually-LED-lights.html

Sibbo wrote:Yep, I've emailed and asked if they could supply one of each, I'll let you know if they will. If they're not keen I'll explain how it's a great combo for bikes .

Hello,

Thank you for your interest in our item.
Do you mean that you want to change this order in 1 spot beam and the other 1 in flood?
If yes then we can offer this as you requested.
Please kindly leave us a message once we make payment.
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Sounds like a good option, Peter.
A good bright spot is on the wish list when funds are available. Let us know how you go with it.

I will but the next thing to think of is how to switch them, at the moment I'm thinking of wiring them together and having an extra waterproof switch on my handlebars . What do you think about that ?

Is there enough capacity in the high beam wire to run them?

If so, run a wire from the high beam wire in the headlight bucket, through a switch to the led's.
They only come on with high beam, and can switched off without affecting the headlight hi beam.

This is the legal way to wire driving lights and will pass roadworthy.

If there isn't enough capacity in the high beam wire in the bucket, run a wire from said high beam wire to a relay mounted somewhere suitable, and take the led's power from the relay.
You will still need to put a switch in the wire taken from the high beam wire in the bucket, and the led's

Benefit of the relay is dedicated full power supply to the led's which is switched on only when high beam is activated at the handle bar switch.
The high beam wire in the bucket only acts as a power source to switch the relay on, giving power to the led's.
As the led's are relatively low power, there may be a spare terminal in the headlight bucket to supply power to the relay.
If not, run a fused wire from the battery + to the relay.
My driving light relay is mounted under my tank, cable tied next to the other relays there.

Sibbo, if you can decipher the above, you're a bloody legend.

Having read it half a dozen times and had a cup of tea , I think I'm OK but instead of the relay wouldn't it be possible just to increase the size of the headlight wire ? The 2 LEDs only add about 40% to the amperage draw.

I 'spose yer could increase the wire size. I can't remember where the high beam wire connects.....wait a minute, yours is different to mine anyhowz.
If the wire is easy to upgrade, it should be ok to take the led power from it.
Still want to put a switch in there tho'

Watch for any (if any) plastic wire connectors that your high beam wire may run through. They melt if they get hot from too much current passing through.

If it's possible to upgrade the wire size ... um, if I can find it and get to it, can that use the existing handlebar switch to switch the high beam and the LEDs ?

dopey on Tweed .

Isn't there something like an advantage for the actual switch in using a relay? In other woids, if you use a relay, the switch lasts longer. It would be an advantage to not overburden the stock light switch, no? I've added relays to my bikes for the Fiamms and when I started looking in on the Vanagon forum on TheSamba, those guys are all about relays on the lights and the starter and they say it protects the switch.

Chuey