'78 R100s kill switch fried

[Tom H Ca]

With what Rob said and I agree with.... If it were me....

If I read this correctly, with the pivot bolt out, the hole in the frame and the hole in the bearing are not lined up. That is not a problem, at least on my Guzzies. With the bike on it's center stand and the rear wheel just off the ground, you should be able to pull/lift/push the swing arm to align the holes. Then thread in the pivot bolt.

You could have damaged threads in the frame, do your best to look for damage. Before buying a special tap, I would try threading in the pivot bolt. IIRR the threads are a fine thread, easy to cross thread, at least my Guzzi is. So use extreme care and make sure the bolt is going in straight and the holes are aligned. It should go in a bit with your fingers. A Tip...Turn bolt counter clockwise until you feel it just drop in to the threads, then go clockwise gently. Provided the threads are not damaged, you should be able to turn the bolt "VERY VERY" easily with a wrench with just 2 fingers on the wrench. IF NOT STOP!!!!!!!...Unscrew bolt and try again. Fine threads sometimes have two places that it will try to thread in. One will do easy for a half turn or less, the other continues easily. When you find the right one with undamaged threads, it goes right in.

You should also be able to try threading in the bolt backwards, smooth end out. This will allow you to check the bolt in the frame threads with the swing arm in place. BUT.....If in doubt, pull the swing arm, at least back a bit maybe??, so you can test the threads in the frame without having to worry about the bearings causing a cross thread.

Hope this helps a bit,
Tom

[oskkar]

Thanks Rob and Tom.

I was able to get the bolt back in smoothly and torqued properly. Per both your comments I was equally concerned about the threads. I cleaned the frame and bolt very well. I was also able to move the locknut freely up and down the bolt and got a new metric bolt to test the frame, good there - so proceeded.

Trying now to get hold of the 27mm socket to install the locknut. Had read somewhere that Kobalt makes a 27mm socket with thin enough walls that it fits without tooling. Looking around now for one of those.

I do think winter project will be to replace the bearings. For a long time now the rear wheel has also felt like it wasn't turning freely. Might be my imagination or comparing it to my bicycles

Cheers and thanks again for your help,
George

[Kurt in S.A.]

Options for the special socket also include looking at a 1-1/16" socket. In my case, I took a 27mm socket and clamped into a vise. I then used a carbide pad of some kind to reduce the outer sidewall of the socket to get it to fit.

Kurt

[barryh]

While I had access to a lathe at work I was in a hurry when I did the job at weekend so I put a big bolt an nut through the socket, mounted it in a pillar drill and with that turning I used an angle grinder to reduce the diameter with quite a decent result.

[Rob Frankham]

I just used a desk grinder to reduce the thickness. A good idea to use a hex socket (as opposed to bi-hex) as it will be stronger.

Rob

[oskkar]

Does the end of the socket need to be flattened and squared?

[barryh]

Yes, grinding off the lead in does enable the socket to get maximum purchase.


BTW is it me or is anyone else getting regular SQL errors when trying to open and post here.

[Kurt in S.A.]

BTW is it me or is anyone else getting regular SQL errors when trying to open and post here.

Yes...I asked about it here:

viewtopic.php?t=12260

Kurt

[barryh]

Thanks Kurt.

[oskkar]

Up and running. Thanks all!

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