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Re: Slash Six Instrument Pod Wiring
Posted: Wed Dec 08, 2010 2:19 am
by Airbear
Garnet wrote:
I need to do something with my /5's instrument and am looking for ideas.
Garnet, the instrument I am using is an Acewell 2853. Check it out here –
http://s3performance.com.au/acewell-285 ... -p-60.html
There is a physical size specification image you can click. The diameter of the body is about 65mm, so I had to make up a spacer. I used some 6mm polycarbonate sheet and turned a rebate around the underside such that it would fit into as well as overlap the 85mm hole in the headlight bucket (which is a Chinese copy of a Russian copy of something like an early BMW bucket).
The bright amber light is the Alternator light - it needs to be about 3W incandescent for the alternator to function correctly.
Good things about the instrument – lots of functions: two trip meters, clock, average speed, elapsed time, max speed, etc. Very accurate, once you get the front wheel diameter correct. RPM sender runs direct from the coil, and there is a multiplier function. Since the scale runs to 12k and I rarely go beyond 6k I set the multiplier to 2.0 and made up a new scale for the face. It also has a fuel gauge (which requires an optional sender unit). I would like to turn this into a voltmeter – just need to learn a bit more.
Not so good things – the idiot lights are not bright enough for sunlight use. I’ll be fitting some brighter LEDs, probably arrayed around above the face.
The Acewell cost $250 from an Australian supplier. Google should turn up a US or Canadian supplier. I have also seen a beautiful German made instrument that suits the 85mm hole, but it is about 400 Euros. TF Much!
Re: Slash Six Instrument Pod Wiring
Posted: Wed Dec 08, 2010 5:29 am
by Sibbo
A very neat setup Charlie !
Re: Slash Six Instrument Pod Wiring
Posted: Wed Dec 08, 2010 7:05 am
by SteveD
Airbear wrote:Well, holy sheepshit. Mine has the idiot lights the other way round - indicators on the bottom.
Ahhh there's the answer. I didn't know that, and if I did, I forgot!
ps: Steve, if you've got an old dead one from the later models I'll happily draw it up.
Which bits? The circuit board? I sold one two weeks back!
Re: Slash Six Instrument Pod Wiring
Posted: Wed Dec 08, 2010 7:31 am
by moosehead
Super Charlie! I'd like to pass this onto the new owner.
My setup for idiot lights is same as yours with turn indicator at bottom and brake failure at top...its a 74 /6.
I'll send you my email address.
Thanks,,Bob
Re: Slash Six Instrument Pod Wiring
Posted: Wed Dec 08, 2010 8:38 am
by pkboxer
Charlie, must be something about the '74 R90/6.
I've got a russian or chinese knockoff headlight on mine.
Only have an electronic tach in the hole though.
What did you do with the key? I reused the /6 key setup, mounted in the top of the shell ala /2 and /5.
Also, don't know if yours is this way, but my reflector for the light wasn't too good and a $10 sealed beam for a Jeep slid right in.
I attached a small/poor quality pic too. Can we not attach photos any longer?
Re: Slash Six Instrument Pod Wiring
Posted: Wed Dec 08, 2010 10:35 am
by Garnet
Airbear wrote:
Garnet, the instrument I am using is an Acewell 2853. Check it out here –
http://s3performance.com.au/acewell-285 ... -p-60.html
There is a physical size specification image you can click. The diameter of the body is about 65mm, so I had to make up a spacer. I used some 6mm polycarbonate sheet and turned a rebate around the underside such that it would fit into as well as overlap the 85mm hole in the headlight bucket (which is a Chinese copy of a Russian copy of something like an early BMW bucket).
!
Thanks Charlie, nice job.
Re: Slash Six Instrument Pod Wiring
Posted: Wed Dec 08, 2010 2:58 pm
by Airbear
pkboxer wrote:Charlie, must be something about the '74 R90/6.
I've got a russian or chinese knockoff headlight on mine.
Only have an electronic tach in the hole though.
What did you do with the key? I reused the /6 key setup, mounted in the top of the shell ala /2 and /5.
Also, don't know if yours is this way, but my reflector for the light wasn't too good and a $10 sealed beam for a Jeep slid right in.
I attached a small/poor quality pic too. Can we not attach photos any longer?
G'day PK,
I initially used the /6 ignition switch, but it is old and tired - on its last elbows. The bucket came with a nice fresh switch with 3 positions (parker, off and on) plus a sprung starter position like in a car. I really like it. I can reach it with either hand but still automatically reach for the switch on the left side of the headlight out of habit. I also deleted the requirement for the bike to be in neutral to start, 'cos there have been times when stuck on the side of a hill in the bush where that has been very inconvenient. I added a couple of toggle switches for the lights and spotlights.
I also used a sealed beam insert - 50/75W - to replace the disappointing reflector and added two 27W LED spotlights hooked up to the high-beam circuit. Very happy with the results. Now I've got the old starter button in the RH perch that's looking for something to do. Any ideas?
I don't think you can attach photos any more. You have to upload them to a photo hosting site and get the code to post. I use Picturetrail.
Re: Slash Six Instrument Pod Wiring
Posted: Wed Dec 08, 2010 3:03 pm
by pkboxer
Again, more brillance, I've removed the clutch switch and wired it on all the time. I'm the only rider and I just always pull in the clutch anyway.
I tried to clean up the reflector on mine and the "chrome" wiped off on a wet rag.
Re: Slash Six Instrument Pod Wiring
Posted: Thu Dec 09, 2010 6:20 am
by sterob
Nice work Charlie! I'm an instrument fitter and I'm impressed...lol
Re: Slash Six Instrument Pod Wiring
Posted: Thu Dec 09, 2010 5:27 pm
by Airbear
SteveD wrote:Airbear wrote:Well, holy sheepshit. Mine has the idiot lights the other way round - indicators on the bottom.
Ahhh there's the answer. I didn't know that, and if I did, I forgot!
ps: Steve, if you've got an old dead one from the later models I'll happily draw it up.
Which bits? The circuit board? I sold one two weeks back!
Damn. If you have one apart at some stage see if you can pull the printed circuit out and photograph the back of it.